Video: Pioneer MVH-Z5050BT and Mazda 6 MPS (MazdaSpeed 6) stereo install, part 2/3
Hey everyone and welcome back to the Sawickipedia. Today we're installing the Pioneer Apple carplay and Android Auto head unit into the Mazda6 MPS, or Mazdaspeed6 for our friends in the US. Now one of the things about the Australian model is this part here is actually empty. I believe in the US model the Mazdaspeed6 does actually come with the navigation. In Australia, we're not so lucky. So we've got to get the old stereo out, so start by pulling out the cupholder, give it a good lift in the corner and it should just click out. Put that aside, then we need to get the gear knob off, bit of a twist will get that off easy, and then lift out this and this centre console part.
Just lift it from the back here and it'll pop out. After that there is a connector at the back for the cigarette lighter. You can see here there is also a little connector for the light which is back here, so get those two off, a little screwdriver usually comes in handy to get the light out, It's got two tiny little tabs on either side of the connector. There we go, put that aside, now we need to get the centre part out. You can start by removing two screws down here, just up in that corner there, and there's another one on the other side in this corner, so undo those. Now there is also a bolt holding the stereo just behind the glovebox, so we need to pull the glovebox out. Just open up the glovebox, push the side in, and push the other side in and sort of pull it towards you, and there's a little lever on the side, you just need to pop that off, so just push it towards the door. And put the glovebox on the floor there. And as you can see back here there's a tiny little 10mm bolt that needs to come out, so let's get that out.
Try not to drop it, tt'll be a pain in the arse to find later. Now those two screws are out, and the bolt on the side you can pretty much pull this whole thing out. Just give it a pull from the bottom it should just sort of click out. Before we pull it out too far, I'm just gonna put the gear knob back on just because that thing will scratch the shit out of anything that touches it. At the back here, there's a couple of connectors on the stereo, this one on the left may or may not be in your car, I've actually got a little add-on Bluetooth that thing will go on eBay, but it worked well at the time it's an easy way to add Bluetooth to your older Mazda. Just unplug the aerial and unplug the big chunky stereo connector. They've all got little tabs on the bottom of them. Just have to push in and then down the bottom here, there's the little connectors for the air conditioning controls.
And we've also got little tabs that you've got to push in, they can be a bastard sometimes. There we go, there's one and there's another one further back down there, which we'll try and get out one handedly. Might have to put the camera down, try not to push the hazard lights. Right, now that that's disconnected you can put it all aside, and what we need now is the replacement centre console which comes with a bunch of other connectors. This thing came off eBay fairly cheaply, it does say that it's designed for a Mazda 6 with manual controls, the upper models obviously have climate control. Alright, now the new replacement does use your original controls for the air conditioner, so you'll need to get them out of the old dash piece.
You'll see that there are a few screws around the outside that need to come out and you also need to take out these little brackets here, so we'll do that. Okay, once you've removed the four screws and the two little brackets this part should just pull straight out. There we go, put the rest aside. Next up we need to remove the back part of the air conditioning controls because this gray cover here won't actually fit into the new dash piece. So there's a screw on each corner that needs to be undone and then there's two clips up the top, and three down the bottom, or four down the bottom that need to be unclipped, so remove the screws first. All right now we can remove that part of the cover and like I said the reason we do this is because it won't actually fit in the new piece with the cover on. The other thing that is going to get in the way is this tiny little tab with the dot in the top centre, so we're gonna have to remove that.
All right, so that's removed obviously be careful not to cut the actual circuit board because there are tracks very close to that little tab, so take extra care. The other part we need is these little surrounds will also need to be removed from the old dash. It's held in by two screws at the bottom here so undo those. Once they're out you should just be able to pull it out, and there you have it. The other thing we'll want from the old dash is this little bit in the middle, which is just like a little cover because the new piece has nothing it's just an empty hole. So we'll get that out, it's just held in by a couple of clips at the back. There it is, we'll need to take this little piece and just shave the edges down a little bit because it is too big, we'll do that later. That can be put back in much later on, let's get these little surrounds in so they should just tuck back in, and then you'll just need to screw them back down, again shoving to get that in but we are getting there now. Now it's time to insert this part, make sure all those wires are out of the way of course, that's gonna sit in there.
We may actually need to remove this little circuit board, which is held in by four screws, and then stick that underneath and put the circuit board back, and then put this part in, and then reinstall the circuit board. Tighten those fairly lightly because it's not a perfect fit. You don't want to bend that circuit board too much otherwise you will break something. But now that that's out of the way we'll put these air vents back in. So again grab the old dash, we're gonna have to get these bad boys out. They are just held in by a couple of screws and clips so pretty easy to take out by the looks of it. There's a screw on each top corner and then, I'm not sure if the camera can get this, there are two screws either side of the middle vent. While we're here, we'll just put the screws back in for the little air conditioning controller as well before we forget. The bottom two screws don't actually seem to be long enough, but everything's pretty solid anyway so you can probably skip over them. We're getting there.
.. Alright, let's plug some of the connectors in and see how it's all coming along. Obviously the stereo is not in yet, but we can see how the other bits are shaping up. All the connectors are pretty obvious, there's only one place each one will go. It did also come with this massive connector, which looks to be the bit that hooks up to the manual air-conditioning and not this version, which has the climate control. But we've got this big plug here which hooks up to where the stereo was and then the two smaller plugs will hook back into where the air-con unit is, or aircon controls are. I is good English like. Okay, so no stereo yet but seeing as everything else is hooked up let's just have a little test, you'll see that this thing says my mazda6, now that's controlled by the new unit. I should have explained the reason we have to do all this stuffing around is because the mazda6 uses the CANbus for controlling the stereo, stereo talks to the aircon unit, the aircon unit talks to the little display up the top.
So it's not a simple case of just pulling the old stereo out and shoving a new one in, there is a whole bunch of other crap that has to go with it. But it looks like we do have some lights here. Maybe let's just turn the ignition on. That looks to work. If you see the little air circulation it changes with it. Air-con seems to be able to turn on and off and I can hear the actual air-con running. Climate control button seems to work, changing the temperature seems to work, changing the mode works, front demister works, that's picking up now. Turning everything off and manual fan control seems to work. Let's have a look, ambient temperature seems to work, clock function, see all the mileage readings and fuel readings. Now this part is programmable, I'll explain later how to do that because I don't actually know at the moment. Let's just start up the engine, just make sure you're in neutral because you probably would have knocked the gear lever around quite a bit. Let's just see if air-con is actually working. Change the mode to front, that is nice and cool, turn the aircon off, give it a second to warm back up again.
So yeah we're back to warm air, turn it right down, blast out some cool air. So far everything seems to work the rear demister light is on, I assume that's working. Obviously hitting air-con makes everything super cold, hitting auto will make the aircon go nuts because I've got it set to 18 degrees so it's just gonna go off. So, yeah pretty exciting stuff it seems like so far everything is working. So we'll move on to the stereo install which I am only half looking forward to. Alright now, it's the fun part where we wire up the stereo. This is the harness that comes with the Pioneer stereo. So we'll disconnect everything but as you can see the new dash comes with colour-coded wiring. So it should be pretty straightforward to hook all this up and I'll document which wires go where again in the comment section. I won't bore you too much with this stuff if you've ever wired a stereo before I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out. So we'll come back when it's all wired up and we'll be ready to put the stereo in.
Okay, welcome back we have the wiring harness ready to go. As I said everything's all color-coded so it should all be straightforward. I used my little wiring blocks, I like things things over the you know twist and tape, and they're easier than soldering everything together. So I'm going to connect everything back up, plug the stereo in, and see what results we get. All right, here it is, the Pioneer stereo, let's plug it in and hope we all don't die! It will be a bit tricky, now plug everything back in and then plug in the stereo. We'll pop that there, give it some power, cross fingers. If you've seen the Nissan Cube install you'll probably be familiar with this screen. It just gives you a choice of which language you'd like so we'll go ahead, select Australia for this one, just hit OK again blah blah blah.
That looks like it, I haven't plugged the aerial in so it's just static at the moment, but so far it looks like those things are working. So the next part we're gonna work on is getting the steering wheel controls to work because at the moment they do nothing. So I'll figure out the wires for that, and come back. So we have figured out the steering wheel controller. After a bit of googling online, we found the car side of the wiring harness has a green and white stripe wire and a red and black stripe wire just near the top center where the connector is. So in the middle on the right-hand side is the green with white, and next to it the red with white. The green with white stripe needs to be spliced onto the black steering wheel remote control cable which looks like a little 3.5mm audio cable, it's basically what it is. That plugs into the back and the red part of that cable needs to go on the wire with the red and black stripe.
So we've got those done, everything else has been hooked up, microphone is put in place, USB cable's being routed through the car. What we end up with now is a fully functioning stereo, the steering wheel controls are working. We just need to push the button that we want to program and then push the corresponding button on the steering wheel, do the rest later. So that's about it, after this we'll stick it all back together, tape up this little mess of wires here, and and we'll go to the review. Thanks for watching, if this has helped you out be sure to hit the like button be sure to subscribe and we'll see you in the next video. And feel free to leave me a comment down below. Thanks!.