Video: Fuji Guys – Fujifilm X-T10 – Top Features
If you already own an X-T10, or you're looking at buying an X-T10, this video might be right for you. Hi, I'm Billy of the Fuji Guys and I'm gonna run through some the Top Features that the X-T10 has to offer. Let's check those out now. If you're looking for a simple way to take photos with the X-T10, why not try the automatic mode. All you have to do is flip this switch to the Auto mode and the camera's going to know both the shutter speeds and the aperture on your camera and adjust the exposure accordingly to the scene that you're shooting with. It's going to automatically detect the scene whether it's a landscape shot, whether it's a portrait, and if it is a portrait, it uses things like face detection to determine the proper exposure for the subject in the scene as well as the focusing for that subject and if the subject gets backlit, it's gonna know that and it's gonna fire the flash as well.
Of course you're going to have to have the flash up and ready to go when you need to do that. It also does things like close-up shots so that it's gonna adjust the focusing so that that you can get macro shots whether it's taking pictures and crayons or flowers, you can get properly exposed and in focus shots by setting it to that mode. Now, if you want to manually set the exposures yourself, or the scenes itself you can use the command dial and change to the various scenes that are built in like portrait, landscape, sports & even night modes. There's even a dedicated fireworks mode that adjusts both the aperture, the shutter speed, and the sensitivity of the camera to give you the perfect fireworks picture. Of course, you probably want to use a tripod when shooting in that particular mode. There's also other different modes that adjust the colour balance and ensures that you get the best possible photos in those type of scenes, again you want this to be a true point-and-shoot experience just leave it on the advanced SR auto mode and the camera's going to do all the work for you. The X-T10 offer several ways to compose your photos.
You can use the LCD on the back of the camera to focus and take the picture. You can tilt the LCD upwards so that you can shoot in low angles, or you can even tilt the LCD down so that you can shoot above crowd. So it could be quite useful. If you don't want to use the LCD, you can take the viewfinder right to your eyes and it should switch it automatically to the electronic viewfinder on the top showing the exact same information that's that the LCD does show you. There's a built-in eye sensor as you can see that just switches automatically. If you wanted to use the LCD or the EVF only, we can push the View mode one-time and it switches it to the EVF only option, ok. Pushing the view mode again puts it onto the LCD only option so if I stick it to my eyes it shouldn't switch. This might be useful where in certain situations where there's shadows and you know you want to use the LCD screen but you know, the shadow's causing a little coverage over the eye sensor and it's switching to the EVF automatically when you don't want to do that. So that's probably when you want to use the LCD only option.
There's also another mode that's called, that's basically a power save mode, and as you can see both the EVF and the LCD is completely off until you stick your eyes to the to the viewfinder. As you can see there, it switches on automatically, and as I take it off it turns off again. If I wanted to review images, I still could and by pushing the playback button it should show up on the LCD on the back, but also the eye sensor still continues to work when I stick it to my eyes and I can see the the image on top of the electronic viewfinder as well. So again, this is a very useful mode when you want to conserve battery life and it's one of my favourite modes for shooting in the field. The X-T10 offers various auto focus modes, which makes it easier to focus on your subject. On the front of the camera, you have the front command dial that you can push inwards and it becomes a button and it allows you to quickly change the various autofocus modes.
You have the single point autofocus, the zone focusing and you have a wide slash tracking auto focusing option. Let me show you the single point which is the standard focusing point for the camera. It's set to the centre, you push halfway down to lock the subject and all the way down to take the photo. Now, if you wanted to move the focus point around you could by pushing the down on the directional pad And then you could move it to the forty-nine different auto focus points as you can see you right there. And if I want to set it to the corner, now use subject so will focus on the left hand side and you can take the picture If you want to re-size the focus point you could too, by using the command dial so you can rotate the command dial to the right to make it bigger and rotate it to the left to make it smaller. If you push inwards on the command dial, it resets it to the original size. The smaller that you change the auto focus points, It's going to make it more accurate to focus, but it's also going to be much slower.
So you wanna leave it to not too small. Of course, you make it very large again the focus is going to speed up by by allowing it to detect various items within that area to focus on but it might not be as accurate. Again, so you wanna reset it, you can push it to the back. Now, if you want to move it to the centre portion of the screen as you can see here, you notice, there's nine different plus signs in white. and these are the phase detection portions of the camera. So if you move outside of this area, you won't be using phase detection, which means it's going to be set to the contrast based, and it's going to be a little bit slower. As you can see, and if I set it to the phase detection area, it should make it a little bit faster. Of course, in good lighting, contrast and phase detection works quite well.
Now changing the different focusing modes to the zone focusing option, now you could see you have a bigger zone area. If I push the button halfway down, it's gonna look for areas of highest contrast. It's going to try to cover all that in one shot. So I just isolate a subject here. You can see it's trying to see the different focus that it's doing. Now, if I wanted to of course, change the size of the zone, I could by pushing down and I could rotate the command dials so that it's a square zone, or it's a small little box. And then again, you know, in here is your face detection pixels, so if you go be outside beyond that, you no longer are using phase detection and it might get a little slower especially if you wanna track moving subjects.
So I recommend you try to keep that within the phase detection pixels within that centre and you can change the frames to how you want the coverage to be at. In this instance, I have it in the centre as default. Now, if I change the autofocus mode again, it's going down to the wide tracking, it's now going to determine the whole scene so it's gonna look through the whole scene not just in the centre. It's going to determine areas of highest contrast in which that it can focus on. So depending on the situation, scene situation that you're shooting with, if you're trying to track subjects that are very wide, it might be better to set it to this wide tracking option; but if you wanna isolate the focusing on the subject, then you know you can set it to the zone area where you know a lot of subjects are grouped together. And, if you want to be exact in terms of auto focus, then you would use the auto focus points, the single point, to ensure that the subject for the camera is focusing on the subject that you're aiming the the focus points towards.
And that's the three different auto focus options on the X-T10. The X-T10 offers three different ways to adjust focusing. You have basically a single autofocus mechanism where the buttons push halfway down and it pre-focuses it all the way down to take the photo. You got the manual focus mode that uses the focus ring in the front to adjust the the focusing. And of course you can use focusing aids like the colour peaking, that changes the, and highlights the areas of highest contrast with a a unique color like red or a blue. And of course you got this continuous auto focus, and this is great for tracking moving subjects. So, in this situation here you would push the button halfway down, and keep that focus halfway down and then you just follow the subject in the scene, and the camera's going to automatically adjust the the focusing to follow that subject wherever they go and as you can see, it's going to constantly adjust focus and makes it easier to take the picture of moving subjects.
Now, in combination of that, you can change the AF modes to things like the zone tracking mode, and in conjunction with the continuous focusing option, you can now hold the button halfway down and it will constantly track that subject as you can see right here. So the subject goes to left of the focusing point, or to the right. It's going to try to follow that subject so again, making it a lot easier for you to ensure that that moving subjects are in focus and when you take the picture, your pictures should be quite nice and in focus properly with the the camera. So, that's just a unique few points of focusing options with the X-T10 from manual, continuous, and single auto focus. If you want to shoot in manual mode on the camera, it's very very simple to do with Fuji camera especially the X-T10. You got your shutter speed dial that's on the top. Right now, it's on the A which means the camera's going to determine the shutter speed for you.
Also, the aperture on the camera is also set to A as well. So it's gonna control both the shutter speeds and aperture. But once I change the dial on the top off of the A, now it's on basically a shutter speed controls, a shutter speed priority, and depending on the shutter speeds that I choose, the camera's going to choose the appropriate aperture settings accordingly to my exposure. So again, if I changed it, my aperture should change accordingly. Now I put the aperture on A, and I use my command dial here I can rotate the apertures, and now I can set it to aperture priority by adjusting my apertures myself. And the camera's going to accordingly adjust the shutter speed here. It's 1/80th of a second. If I close the aperture down, it might use a much slower shutter speed, 1/6th of a second as you can see. And if I completely take the shutter speed dial off of A, now the aperture is is manual.
The shutter speed is manual and as you can see, the cameras not gonna change exposures for me so whatever I see there and I take the picture, it's going to come out dark. If I adjust the shutter speeds to be slower, as you can see, the exposure gets brighter and brighter and brighter until until it becomes to the proper brightness, I can take the photo and that's how you would use the exposure settings on this camera. Of course this doesn't have an aperture but if the lens that you purchase for this camera does have an aperture ring on it, then of course, you can manually adjust the apertures that way instead of using the command dial on the back of the camera. If you're looking to fire consecutive shots really quickly on your camera, and you don't wanna obviously push the shutter button like this, which is called shutter mashing, then of course you can set the camera to one of the continuous shooting modes either CL or CH. CL stands for continuous low, so by holding down the shutter button, all the way down, it shoots it at around I think at three frames a second. And, if I set it to the CH, it's gonna shoot at a faster frame rates up to about 8 frames a second, as you can see there.
Now the camera does have a buffer in the camera to allow you to shoot, but you know as you can see, it writes off from the buffer onto the card and once it's done, you can fire more shots ,and once it hits the buffer, as you can see it does slow down a little bit, and then again, it takes some time for it to clear the buffer but as it clears the buffer, you can still continue to shoot pictures and stop and if then find some more shots. So, this is going to be good for catching action shots. Now what you probably wanna do in this mode too is to set the focusing to the continuous mode so that it constantly tracks the subject where the subject's coming toward you, and you can also be firing a bunch of shots while it's doing that as you can see. That's gonna help ensure that you capture fast-moving subjects within the scene. You can also pan along with the subjects moving across.
You can kind of like do something like that and track the subject that way and that's how you can use the continuous shooting on the X-T10. A great feature on the X-T10 of course is the WiFi capabilities to connect it directly to a smart device and to control it from your smart device whether it's using IOS or Android. Of course you connect to the camera via the wifi settings and you would open up your camera remote option here and select the remote control option. It's gonna allow me now to see exactly what the camera's seeing on the back of my phone. Of course, you can use things like touch focus to focus on the subject. You can also take a shot remotely using this software. Now, of course you can also change different parameters on the camera and change things like that film simulation mode, white balance, even put in a self-timer if you wanted to do a shot where you're in it yourself. You can push it and it's going to countdown in two seconds and of course take the picture. What's also nice about the software is that you can fully control the camera's shutter speeds, aperture, ISO, pretty much most the settings you can even do video so if you switch it to the video option, you can also start recording video on the camera, and of course you can also stop the video as well.
Now, after you've started taking photos, or captured some videos with the camera, you can push the playback button on on the remote app, and it shows up with all the images that are saved actually on the camera. So, if I go through some of the images, I can actually touch the ones that I want and click on import, and it will actually import the images directly to my smartphone through the camera roll and from there, I can obviously share that images with anyone I want on my Facebook or even Twitter account. So again if you go back out into your basically camera roll, you should be able to see your images are actually right there. As you can see shots right off the camera. So it's a great little feature to have with the built-in wifi and it's quite useful for when you know you want to take group shots or you wanna put the camera on a on a unique shooting advantage or shooting angle and don't have direct access to it in order to take pictures, so you can do that through through the remote camera app that the X-T10 is compatible with.
Shooting with flash doesn't necessarily mean that you have to be shooting in the dark or in an indoor situation. Sometimes, it's very useful for taking pictures subjects that are backlit and you want to fill that subject in, and it's only, you can only do that with of course, a flash. The X-T10 does have a built-in flash that's located right here. We're going to flip the lever switch right here and the flash should pop up for us. And, if we take the picture as you can see here. it should nicely fill in the subject's face, and of course provide for proper exposure so that the subject's nice, bright, and clear but also the background is also nice and clear as well. Now, there's different different flash options on the camera. If you go into the menu here, we go down to where the the flash option is, you can see that there's things like auto mode, which the camera will determine if it needs the flash; a force flash which means that the flash will fire no matter what the situation is' a slow synchro flash. So what this would do is that it will burst a flash out, but it, but then it would keep a slower shutter speeds so that it can capture more ambient lighting. This is good for taking pictures in, where the subject is in a low light situation where you do want to capture lighting from the background; but of course the subject needs to be a standing very very still in order to not be blurred.
We have a second curtain sync flash which means that the the flash will fire just after the second the curtain closes instead of the first curtain. You have a commander mode which means that the camera's not going to do a pre-flash. So if you have an external flash that can be optically triggered, you want to set the flash mode to the commander mode so that it doesn't trick the external flash to fire before the picture is actually being captured from the camera. And then you have the suppressed mode. So even with the flash propped up, setting it to the suppressed mode means that the flash will never ever fire. So that's a some of the different options for flash photography with the X-T10. The camera offers various shooting modes via the drive dial. You've got things like the ability to do bracketing modes.
With the bracketing modes, you can shoot things like film simulation, dynamic range bracketing, white balance bracketing, even exposure bracketing so you wanna set it to one stop here. It takes three pictures, one underexposed, overexposed and one that's properly exposed. You can see the underexposed, the overexposed, and the evenly exposed image. You also got things like advanced filter effects that allow you to do things like miniature effects, toy camera, gives you a little bit of vignette into the picture itself. And, the great thing about the toy camera of course is that you see a live view of what you see before you even take the picture. So, it really can come up with a really really nice cool features. There's also within that, things like pop colour, high key, low key, dynamic tones. There's even a soft focusing. There's even the ability to isolate certain colours from the scene so that only a certain colour shows up and everything else becomes kind of monochrome. So that's kind of like the orange here.
Everything is orange. Everything else is basically a monochrome colour. There's also a multi exposure feature. It allows you to take basically two shots and it allows you to compose it and merge it together as you can see here. I can take another shot right there. And then, I'm about happy with that. I can see that I've taken 2 shots and kind of merged it together. So it gives you a really cool effect on that. And of course, you've got things like the panoramic mode that allows you to basically take a shot and it will automatically stitch the scene together. I'm not sure how well that's gonna do for me there but let's just take a look to see how that turned out. It seemed a little bit ok, but as you can see there, it's a little cut off once I kind of rotated it awkwardly. But again, a nice feature to have and it's really accessed through the drive dial on the X-T10.
So there you have it. If you want to learn more about this product, don't forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel. Follow us on Twitter @fujiguys. Until then, I'm Billy of the Fuji Guys..